1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST | Retired/Sold

Maintenance | Time Attack-ish | #GRID.LIFE 2021 | Race prep & build

Fixed, buttoned up, and SOLD?!

car sold

Engineers and researchers before anything else right? Well. In a few hours or so i'm going to sell the car. The car is as of 5 minutes ago running just fine. My repair to the coil on ignition setup, the charging of the battery, and programming of the ecu fixed the issue. Oh..... the 1g CAS was also 180 degrees off TDC! The new owner doesn't know it yet but i'm sure will be happy

11-20-2020 04:42; "Sold the 2g dsm last night. New owner drove it onto the flat bed. Extremely sad day and a even more sad transaction to make. At the end of it all I didn't have room for it and I couldn't be happier that the vehicle is going to another DSM enthusiast. He is making a Fast and the Furious, Paul Walker mod, replica. Maybe post Covid & post business slow down i'll be able to pick up anoher vehicle to showcase my company work and passion. Most importantly though... I didn't let a problem win. I got to the root cause of the vehicle problem with some good-ol-thinking. Advanced logic." - Adrian

Just putting in work while I can

coil on plug

I decided to take the battery and coil on plug setup off. Battery is holding a charge(ish). Overnight we went from 13.31v to 12.92v. Considering proper storage voltage is within a few percent... id consider it ok. COP was rewired to give better peace of mind.

coil on plug


Research while sell'n

research stuffs

As stated before.... the car is now for sale. However, last night I couldn't sleep very well so decided to do research. I believe my no-start issue is a combination of a dead battery when trying to jump start vehicle WHILE also updating new settings WITHOUT going back into Direct Access mode for a non-volatile ram save. Car is on the other side of town but hey.... this is a notepad also. I really cannot get my head around the start issue. Secondly, it is hard to think of selling the car to a non-dsm-enthusiast without having it plug play regardless of battery status or ECU's default memory configuration. Per Magnus Motorsport, there is a non-ecmlink option, which involves moving some pins around. If time allows I will start there.

Green: Pin 1 is now 14
Green w/ yellow stripe: Pin 2, is now Pin 1
Green w/ red stripe: Pin 15, is now Pin 2
Yellow w/ black stripe: Pin 14 is now Pin 15
Refer to the final page of this document for all ECU pin allocations; 

ecu pinout

18:45 11/12; Getting vehicle towed to a storage facility tomorrow by our good friends at Ray's Towing. I will most likely end up fixing ignition issue and run as my 2021 season vehilce. I can't seem to get a decent asking price all things considered and i'm NOT going to take a loss. Period.

Harness ready! & Goodbye

Installed 1g to 2g cas Ohm Racing harness. Car is still a no go. Thankfully i have other stuff to work on. Vehicle is going for sale.

Coil-on and wait

Ummm. The coil-on plug setup is on. I did receive the 1g DSM cam angle position sensor. Vehicle is not currently starting of course. Still waiting.... somewhat patiently... for the Ohm Racing harness we ordered so the vehicle can at least move on its own power.

Aero ideas

Errr. Vehicle storage plans fell apart. Not my best of days but i'll be optimistic. Hopefully all I need is the harness and we are golden. I'll park her outside.

1g CAS installed

Hurry up and wait

I received confirmation the Coil-on plug setup AND black top 1g DSM cas SHOULD be in before Saturday. All I need is the Ohm harness and I can get it driving, all buttoned up -- with the exception of cross-overpipe o-ring, head studs....etc, to its new home. If not, I may have to just go ahead and settle on doing the new upgraded ignition AND all that other important stuff a different time. Post-move.

We may be changing to a video-ish type formate given the amount of traffic and updating as of lately. I will primarily focus on the front aero while indoors. I really need to figure out a rigid mounting solution for the front splitter.

Aero ideas

Also, we need to figure out a way to generate some funds strictly purposed for the vehicle. The idea of "renting" body panels for advertisement/sponsorship seems kinda old. We shall see though.


Swapped ECU pins 10 & 23 to correct the primary ignition firing when using a 95-96 ECU with a 97+ DSM vehicle. We changed the plug wires back to the original, oem, firing order. Vehicle fired up and no CEL but we know how that goes from out previous notes. Now patiently awaiting COP setup. More stickers added to car. Because stickers right?

Jay Racing coil on plug setup

It's always easier work with family... and a portable battery opperated soldering iron!!!!

StickyVinylGraphics.com : Thank you for our fan boy stuffs

because stickers

That Phantom Ignition

The ignition issue returned. Vehicle started to sound like a WRX. Went through some wiring. Did some resistance verifications and continuity checks to figure out the phantom ignition concern. We fixed some botched ignition timing related wiring but that was not the root cause of failure. Drum roll..... the issue is the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft angle sensor. Tap the timing cover, near the crank sensor bracket, and all returns to normal/crap opperation...but not consistent. Nudge the cam angle sensor plastic portion. Same. I do not want to test either sensor with voltage applied. I don't want to lab scope anything.

Fear kicked in. 2g DSMs are known to take a walk from time to time. We had to verify crankwalk was not coming soon. With help from an old fashioned pry bar and some leverage we verified all is well. No movement. I guess the move to get a 1997.5+ DSM was a good move. Updated crankshaft thrust bearings FTW!

We [I] decided this morning to convert over to a 93-94 1g DSM black top crank angle sensor to avoid having to go into the timing cover unless we were removing timing. The hard part is now finding a decent black top CAS! It will replace both the cam and crank sensors when using the Ohm Racing harness ordered. Time is NOT a issue anymore. We found a location to work on the vehicle over winter that doesn't interfere with other project vehicles. Another win!

Hold up! Step back. I want to know if it is ONE or BOTH sensors causing the issue. Do what is easiest and makes the most sense to understand the failure! The vehicle runs which leads me away from an angle sensor issue (typically vehicle will run for few seconds if AT ALL), but a P0300 DTC is just a multiple cylinder misfire and i'm not sure if ECMlink is picking up any logic slack since I am using a 95-96 ECU. Camshaft position sensor first. cam angle sensor

1835: Okay... camshaft sensor replaced. It did nothing. Next order of business WILL be installation of 1g CAS, swapping of ignition primary wires at ECU (pins 10 & 23) and finally installing a coil-on plug setup.

I have to remind myself sometimes that I am a researcher and technician before getting into that "throw parts at it" mindset. You should be too!


wrench please

Lost our last AN line wrench and became really tired of wrapping a towel around a standard adjustable wrench. This came in today after a long time waiting. I get to double check everything. Small wins in life. However, like most things tool related. They end up with my sons toys.

wrench back please

Buttoned up just in time

So. We got the tubular turbo manifold on and the PTE SCM5031e installed with the helps of MAPerformance's Stud kit. Ecu is in. Car starts and idles perfectly fine. The turbo spool difference is noticed and sounds amazing. We will find time for a cruise to verify all is well. Also, did notice a slight leak from the coolant cross-over pipe to water pump o-ring that was almost onto the alternator.... until we made a bracket, cleaned up the area, and applied some bronze rtv. We have the o-ring but.. Did I mention it is cold? Cannot fix it right now. Work duties and dad duties. Soon we will get to fab some type of heat shield, from a piece of 1/8 aluminum sheet, to keep heat away from the fan's electrical. I'm just happy the ecu was nothing but a 'bad/corrupt' file. *knock on wood*

It's all in the head

Life plans didn't turn out as expected and this car will have to go into storage for a few long months. I don't have the greenbacks to buy a cylinder head worth putting on the shortblock given the end goal... or any goal *sigh*.. It's also starting to get cold in Chicago. That kinda cold where working outside of a garage doesn't work. Hopefuly things pick up and these side projects will also.

Not bad news?

Heard back from ECM Tuning regarding the ecu. They couldn't find any issues with the ecu/ecm other than a corrupted file (which should not have caused my issue). The 'burn' noted on the ecu, by our **inexperienced multi-layer-board tech, was not a short. Per ECM;

There is NO visible damage to the board, just slight disturbance of the conformal coating that was done when the ECU was converted to EPROM.

They were able to verify communication was okay. Anything will need wait on engine management to come back and new cable. One of us will have to do some wiring investigation with a focus on engine-timing. Whenever time allows.

Turbo and manifold are currently removed. Need to revert to an OEM proivded unit (t25, 13g, 14b, 16g) per class restrictions. Oh yeah, I have two broken exhaust manifold studs. One ear near, on lower stud, on passenger side is completely broken which will require a NEW head for correct seal or some interesting weld work. I already attempted to extract studs. Extractor broke in center. Excessive engine bay heat was most likely was the result. Bad news. broken studs

**Doesn't exist.

Nothing new, nothing old.

Waiting on the bad news, that may get worse, from ECM Tuning regarding the ecu status. USPS shipping has been SUPER slow recently so I wouldn't be surprised if they haven't even received the darn thing yet.

A few things done

coolant hose

Made some progress today. The heat proved to be too much for the adhesive backing on the magnets that held the face plate on. I had a feeling it would happen. I fixed it with a self-tapping sheet metal screw. Bam!

radio screwed

I installed a new OEM idle speed controller I have been wanting to put in. Reasoning; some parts of the DSM ecu experiences some 'burning' as a result of a failed ISC motor. Better safe than sorry when the ECU is installed.

aluminum overflow tank

Installed an aluminum radiator overflow catch can that was previously on my 1g DSM over 15 years ago! NEVER THROW AWAY GOOD PARTS! I also cleaned up the thermostat housing and installed the Mishimoto race thermostat I had been waiting on.

The radiator fan wiring needed some attention so I also cleaned that up with some new terminals and 'OCD' wiring. I did notice the wiring harness on the driver side of the bay is starting to show signs of heat damage. I may have a leaking manifold and/or gasket OR this PTE 5031 is just getting way too hot. I'll put a turbo blanket on and see how that holds up prior to removing this PITA turbo and manifold. There are no other signs of exhaust leakage.

Two hoses down.

coolant hose

We got around to installing two of the coolant hoses along with sensor adapter. The thermostat did not come in today so we will have to finish up the cooling system later this week. I WILL replace that ugly '45' degree coupler to the throttle body with something that fits correctly. I found an old dsm parts bin! Still debating on replacing ALL the coolant lines now-ish. It seems like more work than we need at the moment. We just want track time. We keep thinking very Chicago-centric when it comes to track racing which doesn't help. Once the car is done. We can alway trailer where we need to go. Waiting for local events isn't needed these days.

coolant hose

On a side note; For the car in general, we're going for a 'joker' type theme. He is very misunderstood. Just like a Diamond Star Motors vehicle.

Cleaned up a lil

Cleaned up wiring behind switches, dash panel, and power distribution components were placed on an ABS plastic 1/8 thick sheet. Not much to do without an ECU and no garage. Daddy duty calls on this nice day.

interior progress

ECU blues

ecu issues

1900; Decided to take the car out for an around-the-block test drive and started having random issues. I decided to do the smart person thing and check the notorious DSM ecu. To my non-surprise there is board damage. I need to send this bad-boy over to the smart folks at EcmTuning. I have a 'spare' non-Eprom-non-Ecmlink ecu I may have to have converted. I need to start deciding on manual steering rack assembly options also.

burned ecu board

burned ecu board

1200; Got around to putting in the new 2/0 gauge alternator wire along with a ground. The cable runs into the vehicle and is connected through a circuit breaker and power distribution box. The vehicle is running amazing again. As you can see. The power steering has been mostly removed. It will look better. The HVAC system will need to remain for SM class rules.

broken alternator

The 'power distribution center' will soon be put onto a board with some type of cover. We will see where my OCD takes me.

power distribution

Broken new stuff

I decided to get the ordered alternator first thing this morning because I honestly had a feeling something would be wrong. I went over to O'Reilly Auto Parts and swapped the failed core. The 'NEW' unit was far from new. The plastic portion/isolator/bushing was missing a part of the lip.

broken alternator

I decided to tell them to order another. In the mean time I will work on the new cable.

93020; Decided to go ahead and install the other hood vent today since it is already purchased. When I went to start the car... it wouldn't start. Go figure. I jump started the car, with the new panel mocked up, and the voltage was reading again at 10.4v and decreasing quickly. So I decided.... it's something intermittent and VERY stupid. It had to be something that happens with slight movement. Let's check the alternator harness.... The positive cable was loose. WOW! Not only that though. The alternator, the brand new alternater purchased a couple months ago, had a bushing around the positive side that pretty much came apart allowing a odd slight arc scenario (it's what caught my attention). I ordered a new one today under warranty. I decided to also make a custom positive cable from the (new) alternator to the power distribution block. I am also removing the power steering. Getting rid of OEM a little at a time. In addition I will cover it (wiring) in some heat wrap.

custom dash

I'm also going to stop keeping track of expenses under $25 and consider them 'shop supplies'.

Ugly under the hood

dash #2 console It just isn't very pretty under it all. Hopefully soon I will be able to tidy this up. It reminds me of the damaged control panels in the old Power Rangers TV show. However, the new switch assy is looking good. Hopefully we will button it up this week w/o any further costs

Put it on the console

dash #2 console I started to piece together what will be the main control panel. So far it will consist of 3 switches, 2 LEDS, and an Arduino UNO. This will combine all the random switches around the driver seat into one place. Where the radio used to be. custom dash
One LED will be the Arduino power indicator which is a simple LED connected to a 270ohm resistor bridged to the 5v power output pin. LED #2 will most likely be either a 'max boost' or 'temp warning' indicator. Switches will be for radiator fans, electronic boost controller and fuel pump. I'm undecided on installing a USB port on the front side for Arduino reprogramming w/o removal of face. custom dash
Yeah, I know it isn't much to look at yet but it is getting there. We completed the metal bracket, which will weld into the factory radio mounts, and decided to make the faceplate mount magnetically. I have a HUGE feeling this is going to be a Version 1.0 type situation. custom dash
Also, I had to end up ordering the OEM radio trim/bezel unit. The one that came with the car was already hacked up pretty badly to accomodate the previous headunit. It is easier to start from a clean base and then trim as needed / if needed. ebay radio trim
I ended up ordering a 34mm coolant temperature sensor tube adapter. I want to start moving most data monitoring reliability away from the factory IPC. I am not sure if I will go with a pre-manufac unit or integrate 'read' functionality with the Adruino Uno. coolant pipe adapter

Had to do something

Since it is extremely hard to look at the car and not touch it. I decided to go ahead and remove the double din head unit. My goal is to clean up wiring and disconnect/remove things not needed to put up a time for Street Modified Class. On the exterior I will need to get rid of two canards per side. Now, this actually changes a few things. I will most likely need to go with canards that stick out, to the limited 5', to make up for the difference in air direction/downforce. Engine gasket set
The side mount intercooler will become FMIC and the previous bumper opening will most likely need to be closed off.

Back burner'd

Due to life changes and work commitments I will have to postpone any vehicle updates/mods/media for a couple months while I build up funds. Donations are NOT being accepted in any shape OR form This is for entertainment. Donate to a worthy cause & Come back soon!

Bunch of something

So... there was no gasket
Took the time to finally finish up the coolant leaking situation. The water neck to thermostat housing gasket did not exist. I am surprised the leak was so small given the circumstances. I used some Permatex Blue RTV and called it a day. No gasket used. No more leaks. All done for now.
Note: Strut tower rust will also need to be addressed soon. Maybe a different fitment altogether. Engine gasket set

Bunch of nada

1700; Decided to not do much since I was not able to do much. I took measurements for a bracket I will need to fabricate for mounting of an aux oil cooler and oil filter relocation kit behind the front bumper on the driver side. In the process I noticed some coolant seepage at the water neck gasket (where it connects to the thermostat housing). It isn't bad but is something I should have noticed upon replacement of the coolant line 10mm away. It may be a result of excessive coolant system psi. Good reminder to replace thermostat. Engine gasket set
Luckily a while ago I purchased TWO complete engine seal and gasket kits that ultimately allow me to rebuild this 4G63T motor 2(ish) times. Money saved = money something. Oh yea... i'll be using a Tanaka #Deckedout steering wheel. Tanaka steering wheel

Up to par(ish)

2300; Took lunch time to put in some work. Changed out the spark plugs, fixed some wiring at ignition module, and disconnected aftermarket tachometer to rule out any possible issue to ignition due to introduced circuit noise. The tachometer is made by Equus and I didn't vet their anything ever. Currently the car runs fine but that doesn't tend to last long with abuse. oil on spark plug sealing ring
I did notice upon removal of (cylinder #3?) spark plug that smoke, burned oil, came out of that port. I believe it corresponds to the plug with the oil around the plug ring landing. The ring oil is most likely due to a leaking valve cover gasket. When the plug was removed chances are good some oil was able to drop down into cylinder while hot creating the smoke. This head will need a rebuild regardless. Parts are on hand. Time is all that is needed. Closed plug gap
I mistakenly lost track of which plug corresponds to which cylinder. The plug gap on one of the cylinders was nearly closed. Due to a break in 'chain-of-custody', again, I cannot verify which clyinder that corresponds to and/or if the plug gap was somehow closed during travel from car to camera. all plugs
Overall the plugs did look similarly worn which is a good thing. Video will be a must going forward for modifications.

There she goes

2200; Ordered some standard 5/8 heater hose from Amazon. I have some stainless steel single ear clamps stocked to finish the job. I've been using them on everything I need to put back together since factory build. Chicago Skyline

1600; Today after a trip to the grocery store the family and I decided to pay my cousin and the car a visit. The Chicago skyline was gorgeous.The battery was slow charged and put on a maintainer since the last late-night visit along with the installation of a new ignition power transistor. I connected the laptop and verified my tune and speed density were still accurate. Two cranks she was running beautifully. We did notice a pinhole leak at the thermostat housing to engine crossover pipe hose. It will be replaced when it gets replaced prior to moving again. It's probably a 5-10 minute repair. Battery will definately need to be changed. Spark plugs will go on next visit along with fresh 110oct (only tune I have available currently) Power transistor and spark plugs

Some thinking

1400: Even though we are apart I still think about you (car). Things to do;
1. Purchase new battery, Optima Yellow D34
2. Disconnect alarm system
9-20-20 Alarm deactivated using first two on raspi controller
3. Verify solid grounds
9-20-20 verified at 14.1v
4. Verify vehicle charging system up to par, 13v+
9-20-20 verified at 14.1v
5. Check timing for possible skip
9-20-20 verified timing accurate
6. Ignition control module / power transistor check + Spark plugs & wires
9-20-20 Verified ignition strong with replacement of transitor
7. Make custom vehicle harness if 1-5 = FAIL.
9-20-20 Vehicle started.

Some true DSM bull$hit

2200: Decided to take the car out to record data from Ecmlink ecu and to have cafe with little bro. All went well until it was time to leave. Car wouldn't start! Jump started with his SUV and I was good to go. That was until I got back onto expressway. Car backfired/misfired and shutdown while driving leaving me stranded on shoulder. Not fun. Stuck on interstate Little bro came through again. Jump start didn't work. We decided best thing to do was remove the front bumper and get a tow truck called out. Called for assist from RaysTowing. They are a family friend AND well respected towing company in the Chicago Area. The bumper fits I had nothing to do with what happened there but... it made me realize my day wasn't so bad. The bumper fits Car was towed to the only other place I would ever trust my vehicles. It will rest there for a short while..I hope. The bumper fits Diagnosis notepad; Dash lights did not come on when car died on eway. Car backfired. Timing belt is intact. Car had idle surge when first jump started. Blinkers were working on their own. Maybe alarm related? Battery discharges. Windows and sunroof were able to be closed when power was provided. Relay heard switching underneath dash. Alarm remote start? Starting system is NOT connected to factory starting system any longer. Push start.
Going to relax a moment.

Locked out, purple rivets, and rain

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2200: A nerd thing to be excited about. A purple rivet that fits PERFECTLY in this angled black bracket! Best part of the day

1400: Called the local Aguilar & Sons Locksmiths to get them to help out. They sent out some dude who could care less to help and started packing things up job unfinished. Decided to call a car key hotline service. They sent someone out and got it done in 1hr on-site. #winning. Dude from ChicagoLocksmith was a huge asshole but hey... car started. It's still raining and ground is saturated. Dad duties call!

0817: It's raining in Chicago. I'm not doing much of anything except a locksmith. I really need a garage I can actually get into. This street life is hard out here.

0500: Great place to start the build log. I will need to give a call to the local locksmith. I cannot find the key and cannot go this weekend without a drive. I'd like to see if I notice any difference with the addition of the rear bumper diffuser installed / cutout. The last couple weeks I did my best with install of front bumper canards and rear diffuser. Placement involved the strategic use of felt, string, masking tape and a couple HUGE air movers. Placement currently reflects optimal flow to side mount intercooler, radiator, transmission cooler, aux oil cooler, and front brakes. In addition I installed a hood vent to help manage the higher temperatures since install of the Precision 5031 turbocharger w/ ARP stainless steel turbo to manifold bolts. (Thank you Fitz)

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1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST | Time Attack / #GRID.LIFE 2021 | Race prep & build

"I have grown a ton and have finally decided to take some more upper level build work into my own hands. Here I will attempt to document my struggles in preping my 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST for the upcoming 2021 Time Attack season. I have always been a function over form person so ...WARNING... this may not be 'for everybody'